The briefing kicked off with Fashion Revolution's Policies and Research team presenting the findings of the Fashion Transparency Index 2022. Some of the key findings highlighted that transparency is still too slow, with brands achieving an average score of just 24%, only 1% up from last years review. Another striking statistic showed that despite the urgency of the climate crisis, less than a third of major brands disclose a decarbonisation target covering their entire supply chain, proving brands still aren't being clear about their environmental impact. Another strong finding emphasised the issue of overproduction and clothing waste, with 85% of major brands still not disclosing their annual production volume. This unclarity has led to a rise in greenwashing, a growing issue within fashion sustainability. Now in the UK 40% of environmental claims could be misleading consumers. This of course all comes back to transparency and disclosure, with a striking statement that; "Transparency is the antithesis of greenwashing."

Following the presentation of findings, Fashion Revolution Policies and Research Manager Liv Simpliciano was joined by sustainability advocate Brett Staniland, FAB-L's senior community engagement and outreach worker Tarek Islam, established ethical trade partner at ASOS Heather Webb and Sara Brennan, the positive business director at Pentland Brands (Speedo). During the panel, a question came up on the cost of living crisis and what this means for the average citizen that can't afford to buy often expensive, sustainable fashion. Staniland highlighted how it shouldn't be the responsibility of consumers but, in his words" the ones up there", who have the power and resources to make change.

Through an impactful video Nareen Sheikh, the author of Empowerment Collective, fighting to end poverty and empower women and a survivor of modern slavery, explained her story.  At the age of 10 Sheikh became a textile worker in Nepal, forced to work 6am-11pm. She said; "You don't feel human. You feel like a living machine that is forced to do the work." Sheikh managed to escape the sweatshop at around the age of 12, moving to the streets of Kathmandu. Here she met a monk, who became her teacher and parent and thus giving her the surname she is known by today. In 2008 she secured a loan to set up Local Women's Handicrafts, a social enterprise enabling women to escape labour exploitation and become financially independent. A decade later in 2018, she founded the NGO Empowerment Collective. Sheikh is a representation of the importance of transparency and how change starts from the root of the supply chain.

Lastly, an important takeaway: Fashion Transparency Index reports on transparency (not sustainability), offering a valuable resource of information for consumers urging them to take action and scrutinise brands and retailers for their practices. Brands who are more transparent open themselves up to scrutiny. Fashion Revolution co-founder Carry Somers says that the increase in disclosure of suppliers from 2016, where only 5 out of 40 major brands (12.5%) disclosed the information, compared to the current 121 out of 250 (48%) major brands, clearly demonstrates that the Index incentivises transparency. The brands are listening to people around the world who keep asking them #WhoMadeMyClothes. "The power is in our persistence."

The briefing was not only a thought provoking, insightful discussion but also an important one that needs to be carried on. It's through industry transparency that we have the knowledge and power to make vital changes in order to to tackle the crisis within one of the worlds largest and most polluting industries.

 

In response to the need for industry to be held accountable on living wages, Fashion Revolution, together with citizens, allies and others, launched a European Citizens' Initiative #GoodClothesFairPay, demanding a living wage legislation across the fashion supply chain. They are collecting 1 million signatures. 

If you are an EU citizen (EU passport holder) you can sign your name at goodclothesfairpay.eu

If you are not an EU citizen you can help spread the word!

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